It is preferable to bring the lamb to cool room temperature before you put it on the grill. Leafy, crisp and vital, the sort of greens best enjoyed as soon as possible after picking.

Peel the beetroot, grate coarsely into a large bowl and add the minced lamb. Pour over the sauce, mix the reserved parmesan with the breadcrumbs and scatter over the top.

Remove the leaves from about 4 sprigs of rosemary and chop them finely. There are vegetables I pounce on the moment they arrive. Place the lamb into a deep sided roasting tin. Peel the beetroot, grate coarsely into a large bowl and add the minced lamb. The gratin, crisped lightly on top, came from the oven bubbling at the edges and was good enough to eat on its own.

The stalks take on a silky quality when you do this and absorb a little flavour from the bay leaves and onions in the poaching water. Brush 3 lamb cutlets per person lightly with oil and season with just a little salt. Little lamb chops, crisped but pink inside, and potatoes with a herby dressing for an easy spring dinner. Make a green sauce by putting the following ingredients into a blender: 10 basil leaves, 2 tbsp lemon juice, 4 anchovy fillets, 6g tarragon leaves (a palmful), 10g parsley, 4 cornichons, 2 tsp capers and 2 tsp of smooth mustard. Set the oven at 180C/gas mark 4. Get a griddle or oven grill hot. Let the cutlets cook on or under the grill until the outside is lightly crisp and the flesh inside is rose pink. Bake for 40 minutes or so until the sauce is bubbling enticingly. In a separate pan, melt the butter over a moderate heat and stir in the flour.

Today was their day. You will need enough for 2 tbsp. Serves 2. Serve with the lamb.

Set the oven at 180C/gas mark 4. Creamy crumble: baked celery, bacon and parmesan. You can bind the beetroot and lamb with an egg yolk to make a firmer patty if you wish.

To be really good, the celery must be truly tender and the only way to achieve that is to poach it before you put it in the oven to bake.

Baked with the crisp, smoked bacon and parmesan sauce the dish is a delight either as an accompaniment (think boiled gammon or poached chicken) or as a dish in its own right.

You will need to put them into hot oil, then lower the heat and leave them alone until they have formed a crust on the base before attempting to turn them. Lay a 500g boned breast of lamb, skin side down, on a board then score deep lines across the meat at 1cm intervals.

Remove the celery, onion and bay with a draining spoon and transfer to a large, shallow baking dish or roasting tin, leaving the hot cooking liquor behind.

Place in …

Put the bulgur in a mixing bowl, pour over enough boiling water to cover, then set aside.

Pick enough thyme leaves from their stalks to fill 2 tbsp then finely chop and mix with the rosemary and garlic.

Make a green sauce by putting the following ingredients into a blender: 10 basil leaves, 2 tbsp lemon juice, 4 anchovy fillets, 6g tarragon leaves (a palmful), 10g parsley, 4 cornichons, 2 tsp capers and 2 tsp of smooth mustard. Pick enough thyme leaves from their stalks to fill 2 tbsp then finely chop and mix with the rosemary and garlic. This is one those dishes that benefits from being eaten warm rather than hot.

Add a peeled clove of garlic, 125ml of olive oil and a tbsp of water.

Set the oven at 180C/gas mark 4.

Peel and roughly chop a couple of cloves of garlic. Succulent meat and creamy cheese served warm and spicy. Lay 3 long, thin Romano peppers in a roasting tin, then lay the lamb on top, trickling over any of herb oil that may remain. Continue cooking, stirring pretty much continuously, till you have a pale, biscuit coloured paste – it will smell warm and nutty.

Change the seasoning.

If I am cooking the cutlets on the griddle, I like to hold each cutlet on its side with a pair of tongs, holding the edge of the fat firmly down on the bars of the griddle, to help it to crisp. Pour over the herb dressing and toss them gently to coat. Leafy, crisp and vital, the sort of greens best enjoyed as soon as possible after picking.

It made a change to make such a mundane vegetable the star of the show, especially as so much of the celery in this kitchen ends up as a back note, chopped and cooked with onions, carrots and bay.

… The potatoes will be all the more delicious if you toss them in the dressing while they are still warm. The herb oil can also be used to baste roasted red or ripening peppers that could be served with a rice pilaf, the roasting juices trickling through the rice. Bake for 1 hour, basting the meat and peppers once or twice with the roasting juices.

Snap the heads of celery into individual ribs, then wash, trim and neaten where necessary.

Process to a smooth, thick dressing. Set the oven at 180C/gas mark 4. Put the bulgur in a mixing bowl, pour over enough boiling water to cover, then set aside. Stir in three quarters of the parmesan and turn the heat down so the sauce simmers gently for a good 15 minutes.

Rub the herb oil deeply into the lamb, then crumble over a little sea salt.

Whether it’s a soft-leaved lettuce or a plume of crinkle-edged chard, it is gone almost as soon as it is unpacked. Potatoes are just a start. Tear a burrata open into a small serving bowl, then pour the roasting juices over it and serve with the lamb and roast peppers.

Squeeze any water from the cracked wheat with your hands and add to the meat. Heat the oil in a shallow ovenproof pan with a lid, then add the

Enough for 2-3. https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/lamb_shanks_with_anchovy_36460 Without the bacon, I would use it as a side dish for everything from cold roast beef to a pork chop. Once drained, I like to slice them straight into the green sauce. A head of celery, a little past its best, cooked until translucent and tender, wrapped in streaky bacon and baked under a blanket of parmesan sauce and breadcrumbs. Remove the lamb from the oven and leave to rest for 10 minutes then transfer to a carving board and slice into finger wide strips with a carving knife.

Coriander seeds, lightly crushed, and cumin seeds can be added to the thyme and garlic dressing.

Get a griddle or oven grill hot.

Mix everything together thoroughly, then squish the mince into 12 pieces, each about the size of a golf ball. Add a peeled clove of garlic, 125ml of olive oil and a tbsp of water. The lamb has plenty of fat that will melt deliciously as it slowly roasts. Add 350ml of the celery cooking liquor followed by the warm milk, a small ladleful at a time, until you have a smooth sauce. All rights reserved. Put the kettle on. When your veg is a little past its best, here’s how to bring it back to life….

They seem to soak up more dressing that way. Serves 4, minced lamb 400gonion 1, small to mediumgarlic 2 large clovesdill 2 tbsp, choppedparsley a small bunch, choppedgroundnut oil a little.



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