Bracketing modes won’t work in those situations. However, the DR settings are written to the metadata and some RAW converters apply this setting automatically. Have a great trip to Africa!

  Your previous content has been restored. DR400 is a little too flat for me – I prefer more contrast.   Pasted as rich text. D-Rng adjusts the exposure in an attempt to protect the highlights. The camera processor recovers the exposure by pushing most of it up one (DR200%) or two (DR400%) stops, while mostly preserving the highlights.

Well, I now have a little better understanding. But the metadata written to the file affects how different RAW converters treat the file when they process it. I think it was possible with the Fuji X-100F. You could also create some custom modes for different looks/shooting conditions.

... C7. Switch the drive mode into BKT and hold down the shutter.

Iew Premium Member. Yes, I think DR100 should really just be called DR OFF. In an extremely high-contrast scene like this, I would prefer to process it in a RAW converter. Display as a link instead, × I didn’t see whether the author mentioned that D Range Priority, in Auto, adds the separate Highlight and Shadow controls to the mix.

But for those who really want to take advantage of this feature, I hope this article helps. A rather important detail. Thanks DR400 can look a little flat for me at times, so experiment with it to see if it matches your taste. If one or two stops of aperture or shutter speed change matter that much to your creative intent, you can try offsetting it by adjusting your “other” variable (stopping down your aperture to regain a slower shutter speed, etc). I am heading to Africa this summer for a Christian mission project as the principal photographer so i might dig deeper into your suggestions. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

But if you’re processing a RAW file, you’re probably better off doing all of this using other tools like Highlight and Shadow.

Thanks, John, for this and some other interesting pieces you have written on the Fuji settings for optimising dynamic range. Using the histogram to expose by so you protect your shadows/highlight? I’m a Big Fan of DRP, and push it all of the time, especially when I see landscapes with burned out Sun areas!

Photoshop doesn’t enable it at all. Do you think if you give such programs a Fuji RAF file that has been exposed normally as determined by the camera that these programs will have enough latitude within the raw file that they produce similar or better results automatically? I do not shoot in .jpg or simulations unless who I shoot for asks me to… it has no value to me.

That’s what I always thought…the RAW file being the RAW file. Thanks for the reply, John. Fuji X100 / X100S / X100T / X100F / X100V / Fuji X70. No one looking at your photos is going to notice an increase in noise from 160 to 320. The differences are subtle, so I’ve included the histograms. You didn’t mention that in Auto, DRP adds the separate Highlight and Shadow controls to the mix. Take some photos of the same high-contrast scene with DR100 and DR400, import them, and see how and when they look different. I assume the simple process would be to set a desired shutter and aperture, leave the ISO in Auto, and use the exposure compensation dial to knock it down. It is fairly complicated and is definitely more along the lines of “personal style” and taste. Fujifilm Dynamic Range uses only one single photo and is a much simpler process. It seems it’s not applicable for scene with fast moving objects. Dynamic Range Priority is a completely different setting found only in the X-H1 and X-T3/30.

Discussion in 'All X100 Series (X100, S, T, F, V), X70, XF10' started by LoneTreeBeer, Aug 25, 2020. Hell, I can’t even see that. Hello Viktor, I’m sorry but I’ve been too busy to run some experiments for you to illustrate this. Hello guest! Great explanations though.

He laughed at me and said “the RAW file is the RAW file, the dynamic range isn’t affected,” like I was some kind of idiot for asking the question. I’ve done some more testing with every RAW converter I can find and have found that some apply the settings and some don’t. You’re welcome!

Thanks. If you like high contrast then you don’t need it at all.

Start with DR100%, which turns the dynamic range optimizations off. But the RAW file itself is as the sensor captured it, not what the processor did to it.”, That’s wrong.

So no, the RAW file isn’t affected, but how the RAW converter processes the file will vary. Do I have wrong settings or is that just not possible? “200% is available at sensitivities of from ISO 320 to ISO 12800, X400% at sensitivities of from ISO 640 to 12800.” The ISO value is written to RAW. Thanks. So when the camera is going to switch to DR200% ISO 400, my speed should also be increased (to lower my exposure, preserve my highlights and apply the ISO 400 only to the darker parts afterwards). You can use the Highlight and Shadow tones options for further curve adjustments.

Fuji Dynamic Range in Lightroom and Capture One,, Kneecapped by the Mythical Fear of High ISO Noise. Now adjust your exposure until the highlights come off of the right wall. ). On this blog, I've covered the settings and techniques I use for processing Fuji raw files quite a bit, but I've never really discussed the settings that I use in-camera for use with Jpeg images.

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